Ooh, Ooh, Uruguay

(I wrote this yesterday). I am sitting in an airplane seat on board a ferry going across the Plata River which separates Argentina and Uruguay. I am going from Buenos Aires to Colonia del Sacramento. It´s a beautiful day, nice and sunny but not hot...about 75 degrees. The "river" is actually about 20 miles wide here, so it´s more like a bay opening onto the Atlantic Ocean than a river. The water is very flat, and, although it looks great from a distance, up close it is a rather ugly brown. The locals insist this is simply because the river washes a lot of earth down into the delta. Even though this "river" is wider than many bays, the water is fresh, not salty.

The ferry ride was sort of fun, particularly the announcement in the terminal. Fortunately, the Spanish was actually understandable. The English version went something like this: "Deez eez lahst cole. Pahsahairos por Colonia ju kahn bee bore troo Gay numero wahn." It kind of helped that there was only one gate and only one boat and a stream of passengers all walking in the same direction.

Colonia is an incredible study in contrasts. Yet another day of gorgeous clear skies, sunny, and 75 degree temperatures. If Buenos Aires is like NYC, Colonia is like Quincy! It´s this sleepy little coastal town filled with old colonial buildings with a colorful history. There are wide empty cobblestone streets with dogs sleeping in the shade. There seem to be two major modes of transportation, walking and Vespas. One Vespa transports a family of 3 and a week´s supply of groceries in an awesome balancing act. You can rent a Vespa for $4 a day. The whole atmosphere is slow, deliberate, laid back. There are families picnicking in the park. Dad carries the thermos of hot water and the cup of mate (herbal tea) which so many Argentinians and particularly Uruguayans seem to be addicted to.

The Italian influence is overwhelming. Every restaurant offers pasta and raviolis and red wine. Uruguayan wines are now taking awards in European tasting contests.

Colonia is a small peninsula about 10 blocks square with wonderful views looking out onto the water. The locals keep everything very clean. In the morning they´re out sweeping and hosing down the sidewalk in front of their houses. It seems like every block has a BBQ beef restaurant, so there is a BBQ smell all over town which makes my mouth water, whether I´m hungry or not. This place makes tme think this is what Carmel might have been like in the 1930´s and 40´s.
I saw signs in real estate office windows for furnished 2 BR apts for $200 per month. (!) The hotel I´m in is charging $13 a night, which includes breakfast. Recently I read that in a survey taken throughout South America, Uruguay came out number one for enjoying the highest quality of life. I can understand that! I feel I should say "Arreva derchi" (sp?) instead of Adios!