Sunday, April 29, 2007

An Ugly Subject

One unfortunate thing about traveling in Latin America is crime. I´ve been hemming and hawing for several weeks about whether or not to talk about this, but I think it needs to be said for the sake of readers who plan to travel to Latin America. As a tourist, you might as well walk down the street with a big sign over your head saying "Victimize me!"

I´ve talked with numerous people in hostals about their experiences. Understandably, most people don´t want to talk about their victimization unless pressed. The one common theme unfortunately, is not IF you will be victimized, but WHEN. The more time you spend in Latin America the greater the chances are you will be pick-pocketed, or worse, robbed.

I´ve been relatively lucky. I´ve only been pick-pocketed once. I also stupidly lost my under-garment pouch and had to go through all the hassle of notifying credit card companies, the ATM card bank, the airline, etc. The experienced travelers (read ´victims´) talk about how best to have the replacement ATM card sent to you. FedEx seems to be the agreed upon way. Credit cards are less of a concern and you can make arrangements to have them sent to you at some address a couple of weeks down the road. It is critical to get an e-ticket for the way home. Failing that, if it has to be a physical ticket, scan it, and send it to yourself as an e-mail attachment, so that you can show this copy to the airline when the original ticket gets stolen.

There are a number of steps you can take to reduce your losses. There´s no way you can immunize yourself against crime, but you can reduce your losses. Valuables must be worn as close to the body as possible. First, get a seamstress to sew pockets with velcro flaps INSIDE your pants and put documents and cash in there. There are pouches and money belts, but these can break or too easily be removed or get lost. Second, carry a dummy wallet with a token $1 bill and a long-expired credit card in it, in an open back pocket. If, God forbid, you get robbed at knife point, you pull out that wallet, drop it to the ground, and run as fast you can.

Only put wallets, etc., in ZIPPERED (or second best, velcro) pockets. Only wear pants, shirts, or jackets, with many zippered or velcroéd pockets. Parcel everything out into different pockets. For example, a different credit card or ATM card in each pocket. That way, when you get pick-pocketed, you only lose one card, not all of them.

When you sit down in a cafe or restaurant, it´s normal to put your daypack between your feet on the floor. Always put one foot through the strap of your daypack. Even though it´s a nuisance, ALWAYS padlock your daypack and suitcase.

Probably one of the more difficult things to learn is when some one in the bus or on the street attempts to assist you or befriend you. Curse at them immediately in whatever language comes easiest and walk away rapidly. Kids are taught, unfortunately, at a very early age, to pickpocket. If little kids come up to you with their hands out, etc., don´t walk, RUN AWAY as fast as your legs can carry you!

Most experienced travelers to South america have been victimized at least once. You just have to reconcile yourself to the fact, that by walking down the street of a third world country, and simply looking gringo, you are flaunting wealth! You are going to be victimized, sooner or later. The challenge is to minimize your losses.

An Australian I talked to spends three months each year in South America and has done so for several years. Each time he´s gotten pick-pocketed or robbed at least once. He just shrugs it off as a cost of traveling here.

In my experience, you are most vulnerable when you are carrying a backpack or a suitcase. Spend the extra money to take a taxi to your hotel or hostal where you can unburden yourself of this baggage. When you carry only a daypack, there´s much less to be burdened with and you don´t immediately look like a perspective victim. My two experiences, one of being pick-pocketed, and one of attempted pick-pocketing, both occurred when I was carrying my large backpack.

Hotels are inherently unsafe, period. There´s a combo padlock with a foot long wire on it that you can be in travel stores or stores like REI. Use it to chain your padlocked suitcase to your bed when you leave for the day. Do NOT use hotel safes (when they´re available) because they are regularly robbed and the hotel will not accept any responsibility.

Try to NEVER pull out your wallet. Break down your money into the smallest bills or coins available. Usually, ATM machines will only give you big bills. After you get them, walk right into the bank, spend the necessary time standing in line, and get them broken down into smaller bills. At all times, try to pay with only the exact change.

In the long distance buses, padlock your daypack and place it under your feet, with one foot through the strap. Try to sit near the front of the bus where it´s a bit safer than in the back. Try to befriend the passenger next to you, but realize that the odds against this are great. They are trained, like you should be, to treat you like a criminal until you can prove to the contrary. Remember that the cute little kid in the seat behind you will pick your pocket if given the chance. In overnight buses, it is usually pitch dark inside the buses. Have a flashlight handy. The drivers don´t turn on the overhead reading lights.

Scan all of your credit cards, ATM cards, travelers checks, etc., and e-mail them to yourself, together with the information on now to notify the companies when your stuff is stolen. Do NOT carry cell phones, cameras, etc., attached to your belt. They won´t be attached for long.

There are many other points that could be mentioned but I´ll stop here. Most people in Latin America are friendly and warm and welcoming. In addition, there are those who will try to separate you from your money, but in a recognized legal way such as offering you tours, etc. And last but not least there are the criminals. Regrettably, there are a great number of these. The ultimate challenge is to not let these petty crimes negatively effect your ability to enjoy the country.

Travel safe!

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