Sunday, February 24, 2008

Veracruz: the Second Invasion

Veracruz is an amazing contradiction. Historically it was Mexico´s major port city. In the last 50 years or so it´s been eclipsed by some other cities offering container terminals, etc. However, Veracruz´ claim to fame is that, if you´re an invader, this is where you land. It´s pretty much a straight shot from here to Mexico City. Cortes found that out in the early 1500´s. He was pretty much the first invader. Then came an untold number of pirates and corsairs.
Trivia question of the day: What´s the difference between a pirate and a corsair?
Answer: a pirate did his thing for the sake of acquiring personal wealth (which for totally inexplicable reasons instead of spending he would bury on a deserted island and not be able to find again without the assistance of a crudely drawn map ((Thank you, R.L. Stevenson)). A corsair, like Francis Drake, was officially authorized by the head of his country to sail around the new world acting like a pirate and thereby "showing the flag." Kind of like what the US does now in sending a fleet to park offshore of a country. Interestingly enough, from the Mexican perspective, the fiercest and most feared pirates were the English, renowned for their cruelty!
Then came the Austro-Hungarians and the French because the Mexicans defaulted on loans. Then came the Americans in 1846 as a way to practice for the upcoming Civil War. The Americans said "Here´s a bunch of money. We want Texas, Arizona, New Mexico, California, and parts of Nevada, Colorado, and Utah. If you don´t accept our generous offer, we´ll attack you." The Mexicans had the nerve to reject the offer (or at least not respond to it). Hmmmmm....sounds like the Free Trade Agreement, doesn´t it?? When the Americans occupied Mexico City (after invading through Veracruz), the Mexicans decided the offer was a pretty good one after all. In 1914, the Americans attacked again and occupied Veracruz once again just to make sure the "neutral Mexicans" were not foolish enough to allow German ships into their harbor.
As a result of all these terrible wartime experiences, Veracruz has every right to sort of drape itself in black and make the city into a permanent memorial for the terrors of war (not unlike say the USS Arizona in Pearl Harbor). There is indeed a token monument to all the Veracruzanos killed by North Americans.
However, the whole town seems to be in a constant state of celebration. The only reminders of the town´s sad past are to be found in the Naval History Museum, which is truly fascinating. Otherwise, the festive party atmosphere here rules supreme. Let´s hope the Mexicans continue to sign off on the Free Trade Agreement. I´d hate to see Bush ruin the nice atmosphere here by sending in the US Army yet again!
From (not too far away from) the halls of Montezuma, hasta luego!

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