Thursday, March 26, 2009

The Huascar

Every year, the people of Bolivia bemoan the anniversary of the "War of the Pacific," and the fact that Bolivia is a totally landlocked country. I discussed this earlier in my blog from Bolivia. The anniversary is a national holiday, the workers have the day off, and people line the streets to watch or take part in parades. Bolivian flags are carried high; Chilean flags are burned; and sometimes Pres. Bachellet is hung in effigy. Why is this? Why do the Bolivians get so worked up over this and what is the "War of the Pacific?"

After Simon Bolivar got through running around South America liberating the locals from Spain, the boundaries between Peru, Bolivia, and Chile were quite vague. Theoretically, Bolivia had a coastal shoreline on the Pacific, but the majority of the people there were Chilean, busy making money working the mines in the region. The Bolivian government decided to increase its taxes on the mining operations (unwise); the Chileans called on the Chilean Army for help, which they were poised to do. The Bolivian Army was all but non-existent, under-equipped and underfed. The subsequent land battle between Bolivia and Chile was over faster than you could say Evo Morales. Bolivia became a country without a port.

However, Chile had extended its reach not only into Bolivia but also into what the Peruvians considered part of Peru. Peru had a naval force of its own, not as large as Chile's, but nevertheless fairly effective, particularly because of the power of one ironclad Monitor-type combination sail-steam warship called the Huascar. Huascar was named after an Incan prince and was captained by a great naval strategist named Admiral Grau.

There were several relatively minor naval battles which could be characterized as either draws or Peruvian victories, largely due to the power of the naval vessel Huascar. In one battle, the Huascar rammed the pride of the Chilean fleet, the Esmeralda, sending it to the bottom. During the battle and ramming, the Chilean commander, Adm. Prat, leaped onto the Huascar, shouting brave words, and was promptly killed. Adm. Prat is now Chile's primary naval hero. In all fairness, there are reasons for them to honor him as well. If you had a dollar for every street and monument in Chile named Prat, you'd be a rich person.

Finally, the Chilean navy was able to badly outnumber the Huascar and successfully overcome her. The captured and restored warship is now on display in the harbor near Concepcion. Attached are some photos of the boat. During the tour, there is military music played over loudspeakers throughout the ship, and the naval guide is quick to point out the heroicism of the participants on both sides.

Each year the Bolivian government renews its efforts to strike some sort of deal with the Chilean government whereby Bolivia would get access to the sea. Each year, no agreement is reached. Bolivia is currently suing Chile in the World Court in the Hague, for what that's worth over its "right" to have a seaport. In the news today was an article showing that the Bolivian use of the seaport of Arica, now a part of Chile, has increased considerably over last year. About 69% of the trade going through Arica is Bolivian.

Ironically, Bolivia has a "Navy." It even has one ocean-going boat, at anchor somewhere off Peru. It has admirals and officers and the like. However, they're all stationed at Lake Titicaca, no doubt waiting for the day when their navy can actually be on salt water. In the meantime, Chile has a significant navy of its own, as well as an historical reminder, in the form of the Huascar, as to who has the upper hand.

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