Thursday, February 28, 2008

Some Random Mexican Thoughts

Two mexicanos have told me how terrible the mexican banks are. Each time I just sort of shrugged it off. In the past 8 weeks, I´ve almost exclusively used only ATM´s, which means my contact with banks has been only with a machine. However, just recently I tried to cash some traveler´s checks. What a hassle! The banks take the attitude that you the customer are an annoyance that they have to put up. I think this was the attitude of the American banks over 50 years ago. One teller turned her nose up at me and said, in effect, "We don´t DO travelers checks."
The ATM´s usually give you only 500 peso notes. This is the equivalent of $50. These notes are very hard to change. As a matter of practice, everywhere in Latin America it is very difficult to buy anything with other than the exact amount of money required. In South America, I believe the reason is that the vendors tend to stash their earnings in the deep recesses of their clothing and keep small amounts immediately at hand. However, they don´t have this excuse in Mexico. Anytime you buy something, and offer a bill slightly larger than the asked-for price, you will get this sigh of frustration, and the subsequent plaintive request: "Don´t you have an extra 3 pesos?" or whatever to make the change easy to produce, like a 10 peso coin or a 20 peso note.
After getting my 500 peso notes at one bank´s ATM, I promptly went into the bank, stood in line for the necessary time to work my way up to the teller, and asked for smaller bills. She looked definitely irritated. She asked me what I wanted. I said 100 peso notes. She said, without looking in her drawer or anything, "I don´t have any." Right, this is only a bank. I said that I was willing to wait for as long as it took for her to go to her boss and see about getting more 100 peso notes. She looked completely disgusted and offered me one 200 peso note and six 50 peso notes. I took it.
When I lived with the family in San Cristobal, one of the young girls in the house worked in a local bank. If it´s any consolation, I know that the banks treat their employees even worse than their customers.
Another fascinating aspect of life is the telenovela. These start at 4 o´clock in the afternoon and continue until late in the evening. There are basically two networks in Mexico and they compete with each other in offering telenovelas. These are soap operas with a cast that always includes beautiful women. The theme is (almost) always infidelity. Some one is always jumping into some one else´s bed and the spouse of the one is always walking in unexpectedly on the other two.
In addition, all the women have incredibly pale skin and could easily pass for northern Europeans, some even with blonde hair and blue eyes looking like they came straight out of Scandinavia. The people all live in mansions and have maids. The maids all have darker skin, walk with a shuffle, and act very subservient. It reminds me of the racist tv which we had in the states back in the 40´s and 50´s.
I think this is a reflection of the underlying racism which still exists so strongly in Mexico and is a leftover from the colonial era. It also goes a long way toward explaining Latinos´ support of Hilary Clinton and non-support of Barack Obama. It´s kind of the polar opposite of some American males. The one group is racist and the other misogynist. Perhaps in the course of time the novelas will start showing equally beautiful women but with browner skin. In the meantime the novelas do absolutely nothing to improve the situation in Mexico, only continue to exacerbate it.
The senora of the house that I stayed in in Oaxaca had her portable tv set propped up on the kitchen counter and was able to cook meals, talk on the phone, and eat, all at the same time while watching telenovelas. These shows have become popular all over the world. When one is particularly successful in Mexico and elsewhere, it gets copied for American tv (Ugly Betty, for example).
My first day in Xalapa was very hot, probably in the high 80´s. I was looking forward to it cooling down at night. How does the saying go? You should be careful what you wish for. In came the cold front the next day: drizly rain and dropping temperatures. The climate here reminds me a little bit of Lake Tahoe in the fall. It might be gorgeous one day, and remarkably warm, and quite cold the next. When I went to bad the night before last, I was almost shivery and used the blanket. It felt like the room was freezing cold.
My little electronic travel alarm clock has a thermometer in it, which in my experience has always been quite accurate. There I was in bed, reluctant to take my socks off because of the cold, and the temp on my clock said 68 degrees! I may be in for some trouble adapting again to the Plumas County climate in March!
Hasta luego!

2 Comments:

At 7:02 AM, Blogger Robin N said...

Hola Viejo ;-)

Just a heads up on using ATMs (personal experience): about 8 years ago on my first trip to el DF, I withdrew some cash from an ATM near a large Wal-Mart plaza across the street from my hotel. I did not discover until I was attempting to pay for a meal (on Mother's Day, no less, when most businesses are closed) that the 200 peso note -- all crispy, fresh, looking just off the press -- would not be accepted by the restaurant. I received very little explanation there but back at the hotel the desk staff was able to explain the answer: it was not a current bill! This brand-new looking bill was actually printed back in '74 and ceased to be legal tender more than 10 years earlier when the peso was devalued and new currency issued! It was hard to detect as it was the size and color of the current 20 peso bill and, being unfamiliar with the currency AND expecting the proper currency to come forth from the machine, I did not notice it until too late. What transpired afterwards was a lesson in cross-cultural communication!

It appears that someone, somewhere had a stash of new old bills and interspersed them occasionally in the ATM here and who knows where else, taking a mere 20 peso note in exchange. I never got a satisfactory resolve to the switch but I did learn an invaluable 200 peso lesson!

BTW, do your best not to tear that paper money or it's as useful as currency as toilet paper. And, larger bills are hard to break because Mexico's economy is such that most people live on very little. They transact in small amounts, receive small amounts in return and actually have very small totals of cash to work with day in and day out. If you ask your taxi driver to break a 500 peso note and he can't it's not because he doesn't want to. More likely, he doesn't have 500 pesos in total on his person and if he were to accept it and give you every small bill and coin in return he'd be unable to function with subsequent customers who might only need to pay a 17 peso fare.

Finally, as for the telenovelas, I have friends who act in both Televisa and TV Azteca productions (the two studios) and, with respect to Televisa in particular, it's highly reminiscent of the old Hollywood studio system (and values) of the 30s-40s. If you're interested in finding out more, I'd recommend a bilingual independent fan forum: telenovela-world.com!

 
At 8:14 AM, Blogger Garrett said...

Thank you, Robin, for your excellent comments!!! It´s amazing how the locals will detect a counterfeit note while thumbing through a bunch of currency by just the feel.
Gracias otra vez y que te vaya bien!
--Garrett

 

Post a Comment

<< Home