Monday, January 26, 2009

"Back in Mexico Again!"

"Back in Mexico again!"
I'm traveling by bus around the state of Nayarit. Nayarit is relatively unknown to most gringos. It's the state immediately to the north of Puerto Vallarta, which is in the state of Jalisco. Basically, if you're driving to Puerto Vallarta or Guadalajara, you drive through Nayarit enroute, maybe stopping for lunch in the state capital, Tepic.
I've spent almost the last month at a wonderful little town on the coast called Chacala. It's a beach town of about 400 people. There are some resident gringos, and visiting ones like me, that maybe total about 50. On the weekends, the place comes alive with mexicano weekenders driving from Tepic or as far away as Guadalajara (4 hours) to frolic on the beach.
Today I took the small collectivo to Las Varas, a town about the size of Quincy, to catch the bus to San Blas. The bus stop is where the taxis park as well. There's no bus station. You just wave the bus down.
I got there at about 8 a.m. because I was told the bus left sometime between 8 and 9 a.m. There were about 4 taxis there with nothing to do. One taxi driver said to me "Oh, the bus to San Blas just left. You just missed it. I'll take you there for 400 pesos (about $30)." San Blas is 2 hours away. I said I was a tourist, on vacation. I was not in a hurry and I'd wait for the next bus. I also didn't trust this guy any farther than I could throw him. The other taxi drivers then started offering to take me for less. The last offer was 250 pesos, less than $20, which is kind of sad when you think it's going to cost him about $10 in gas to drive there and back. That means he earns $10 for half a day, not very good.
I declined all offers and the bus arrived at 8:15. The bus ride cost 50 pesos, about $3.50. Enroute I could see large groups of unemployed men standing around motor repair shops and other places, socializing, but obviously unemployed. I can understand why so many would want to come to the U.S. to work.
The drive to San Blas was beautiful, through dense tropical growth. Vines and creepers grow everywhere. Most of the terrain is planted. There are palm trees sticking up through the other vegetation and lots of banana plants. There were stands on the roadside offering banana bread.
There were a number of small towns along the way that boasted a grammar school and a "TV" high school. How sad. There obviously are not enough teachers to get around to all the small towns. The distance to the nearest "big" city high school is too far. So the kids go to a school which offers classes by television. I wonder if the US will get to that point as well.
San Blas is a very small town. It has a harbor. There are fishing boats in it. It was a relatively important port town in early Mexican history. There is an old customs house, not unlike the one in Monterey, CA, which is now a "cultural center." Father Junipero Serra, the founder of the California missions, started his journey from San Blas, sailing up to San Diego.
It is terribly hot here. There's no breeze to speak of. Unfortunately, San Blas' claim to fame is that it is populated by huge numbers of no-see-ums, the tiny flying insects that are so small you can't see them and (I'm told) they fly through window screens. Fortunately, right now they're not as bad as they can be during the summer months. The stalls along the sidewalks list "repellent" at the top of their signs.
I arrived in San Blas, unwittingly, in time for the "Festival of the Migratory Birds." I'm not sure exactly what that means, but I know that tonight starting at 8 p.m. in the town plaza, there's going to be music and dancing.
More again later!

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